Ments



June 19, 1923.

B. T. LEVEQUE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 28 1917 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 19, l

B? T LEVEQUE MITFONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 25 1917 6 Sheets-Sheet lkifnaszs A fuwf/ dumg B. T. LEVEQUE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE June 19, 1923.

Fil April 28 1' 6 Sheets-Sheet Iii/file June I9, 1923 B. T. LEVEQUE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MAL 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 rvfikverltor My June 19, 1923.

B. T. LEVEQUE BUTTGNHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 23 1917 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 'fll zfhir 44 4-444: a;

r 0; W 2.4 W

'June 19, 1923. 1,459,374

7 B. T. LEVEQUE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 28 1917 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Z V R a miness fiz'entor latenteil June 19, 3923.

UNITED ST TES PATENT OFFICE.

BERNARD T. LEVEQUE, OI? WENEA'M MASSACHUSETTS. ASSIGN'OR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION. OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

.} CDRIPORATION OF NEW JERSEY,

BUTTC NHLF-SEKNG MACHINE.

Application filed April 28, 1917.

To all whom it may (027.com

Be it known that I. Binomial: T. ln-zvsomc. a citizen of the United States; residing at \Venham, in the eounty of ex and State 6 of Massachusetts. have invented certain new and useful. Improvements in lmttonhole SeWin Machines; and I do hereh d eliire the fol owing to he a lull. clear. and eXurt. description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the artto whirl) it.

appertains to make and use the smile.

The invention relates to lmttonhole sewing machines for working and herring the ends of straight, huttonholes. although some of its features are applicable to ther type of buttonhole making machines.

lt is the object of the inventi n to ink) vide novel and improved feeding nieelurnism which may he readily adjust-wt for sewing different lengths of lltll lui ilitiitf to provide novel and improved actuatin means for the feeding meelmnism ohieh adapted for securing" :ieenrslte spurt: stitehes when operating at high sp ed. f-Hnl which may he rerulily adjusted for diilerenl l ngths of lnittonlmlesor (liil'errnt mrintr t the stitrhes; to provide novel nod improved means for varyini: the exit-n: ot ih lateral vibration of the needle and the sp l d the feed meehzinisnr in twinin the Fl herring stitches; and to nth rni; and sina 'dil'y the various parts soil m chanisms of the rnnrhine.

To these ends the invention romprise the -t'ealures of ('Uill 'iliitllnlt and oirlmnd ons of parts hereinafter desvl'i lwl :md relerrwl to in therlainis. the advantages of \llilt'll will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed deseription 1 d.

49 a. nmehine embodying the various textu es of the invention in their preferred forms.

In the drawings Figure l is :1 side elevw tion of a maehine embodying the invention: Fig. 2 is :1 plan view; Fig. fl i :1 front elevation; Fig. 4 is n seetionul view on line 4. Fig: 3; Fig. 5 is :1 seetional view on line 5, Fig. Fig. 6 is a sectional plan view on line 6. Fur. 1; and Fig. T is :1 sectional view on line 1', Fi n 1.

in the drawings the invention is shown embodied in a machine for making straight huttonholes with straight inn-ring stitches aeross eaeh end of the huttonl'lole. The nni- Chine comprises in general a stitch forming Serial N0. 165,105.

inerhanisin consisting of a vertically reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle and a shuttle lmated helow the work and co-opernting"n tli the laterally vibrating needle in :t'onning the over-seam stitches along the sides of the huttonhole and the barring stitches across the ends of the buttonhole; 51 work rlnnip whit-h is moved longitudinally to spare the stitches along the sides of the hnttrmhole, and moved laterally to bring the \v rh into position for sewing along the opposite sides of the huttonhole, and into position for the forming of the barring stilt-hes at the ends of the huttonholes; and a.

I-utter for cutting the huttonhole slit after the sewing is completed, which is operated from the meehanisin Whieh stops the marhino at the completion of the sewing.

As shown. the needle 2 is secured in a needle lmr t whlrh i reeiprocated by a. crank =3 worried on the nd of the main driving shaft H. and eonneeted with the upper end of the needle liar hy a link 10. The needle her is mounted to reeiproente in a swinging earlier 12 supported on a stud l4 and oseil lnted to laterally vibrate or jog the needle her and needle through a link 16, the rear end of whirl: i eonneeted to an actuating lever in. The lever is oseillated by an ecreziirir 1f v-xhirh engages a bearing in the upper end ot the lever. and is formed on a shaft 9; whieh makes one revolution for ltit'll two revolutions of the shaft 8, as will he more lolly deserihed. The lever 18 oscillate shout a fnlvrum stud 24 which carries it l nlrrann hl ek i l; engaging a groove 28 in the lever. The tuleruni stud 24 is secured in a slide 30 which is mounted in a vertical guidmvay 32 in the frame of" the machine, :nrl ma he raised or lowered to vary the position of tiltfulcrum for the lever l8. and therein; vary the lateral or jogging movement of the needle and needle bar in sewing the comparatively short overedge stitches along the sides of the huttonhole. and the eompnrntivelv long barring stitches across the ends of tho huttonhole. The slide is moved vertically at proper intervals by a rain lever 3-1 eonueeted by a link 36 with the slide. and carrying a roll 38 arranged to em gage the upper surface of a, cam wheel or disc 40 which mahes one revolution for each lmttonholel The disc is provided with two diametrically opposite depressions 4 2 which register with ilie earn roll 3 and euuse the sliile 3H to more lOWIlWllI'v'i. lEll thus increase the lateral vibration of the nemlle (luring the sewing ofthe herring stitehes. As the barring is eonipleterl the roll riilrs out. of the depression. thus raising: the sliiln Bil and reducing the lateral vibration OF The needle (hiring: the sewing along; the sides of the huttonhnle. The shuttle ll for romp r ating with the laterally vibrating neeillc is 0f well-known eonslruetion. and is osrillnleil from a crank lfi on the shah; a through a link -18 lever 50. arm .11? :uul lih'h' shaft 54 of usual construrtinn.

The holder imnr'ureYing the work emu prises a piste fill mounleil 10 more iflngitin tlinfilly and laterally on lhe hase plate 58 0f the machine. and a (clamp 60 earrie l on a clamp lever 62 mounted nu the plate. The lever is pivnteil in n support 64 secured on the upper side ui lhe plate. and the rear end of the lever is eonneelmi by a link 66 with. a treadle (not shown). by whieh the operator may open the clamp to insert or space the work The clamp is normally held closed by a spring 68. The work holder plalie 56 is retained on the upper surface of the base plaie 58 by the overhanging lugs 70, and by a plate 72 which is seemed to the under side. of a cross bar 74 on the rear edge of the plate. The plate 72 engages bearing surfaces 76 on tln under side of the hase plate 58: and is pivnizilly eonnerleil near its rear end to a him-k T8 wliirh is mounted to slide in a guiilen'ay R0, fll'lllili in the base plate. 1

The mechanism for advancing 11ml retrzu-l'- ing the work holrler during he sewing L'hlll prises a series of feed cums having var fin; throws, and a master feed cam aeluating lhe feed came to give the work holder :1 length of travel corresponding to the throw of the cam which is aeli'vely cunneetei: Willi the mark holder: The series of cams are so mminted that any one of ihe series may he a tirely connected with the wnrk holder and with the master mm to regiilate or adjust the travel of the mark holder in iiecorilanee with the length of huttoniwie whieh it is esired to make. The wins may he and preh erahly are [H'OVliliil will -lwells attheir opposite ends. so that the work holder may he retained in fixed position [luring lhe sewing: of the hut-ring stitehes zit til-(ll end of the travel of the w: 'k liohier and thus iii barring still-h s he formed one on hip of iii olher. in the rmwtruetinn shown ilie series of mm :mnve 8'3 are l'nrmeil on the umler i ifi l ll t'lllll1il 'i ll|\Hlillf ili lli-i rom'm long l'orlne l lw rihs hu ,1'ni|*i'll'|-; ;f mm the Ii i031 f lm i l E i H l l w l l l i l a: n H l i t l i ore hown 5 ulii Elie li ns or dwells at its opposile ends. anil the mim-ulrir porlious are (mmmle l liy iur'liueil portions (he length of Whirl; ih-h-rminwi the length of irurel impurieil to the work lllllllll' h that |):|lll'lllli! Pill. The l'illll lll l' is so uuniilli l llml any one ol the ruins on its mill r l'zu'e may he brought iuio engage nicut \iiili :1 roll WI rurriwl II the sllul it Whirl: ((llllll'i'iF the lilork Th with the |)lllll T23 ol' ihe work holclel'. The outer enilol' the rain slots 82 an open nwl uuolvslruvlwh so llml he roll um pu s in or out olll|iem! oi the um in rlliuigiug l'roiu omuin of lheseries in another.

The rain ilise R4 is (H-Illlikllll lllll'l llf the sewing ol' :1 hultouholv lll! ll, 1li u lo|| l. one en l of uhieh nan v he muneriwl lo pivot srr w 96 will: any one ol' 2| serie of lifllill 53% in llle (lisr l. IllHl llu' illhel viul ol Wlll fll is 'HllllUt'tPll lo a mini level loll. 'llie rum lever marries roll I -J ulw'l1.euu:\ "e:- a ram groove. l ll l'ol'iuml in: h miller lave oi llie ruin \\'ll("(l ill. The mu": Lroinil ll forms 2: master l'eeil um ol' woman! [lire-u; Whirl] osvillules llumm rurrying ilise hl rluriin; the sewingol' :1 llull nll l the movement impart d to th work liohler heiug: ilelerlninecl lJ Y the min +3 wliirh is vulugeil by llie min roll on the hohler.

The number of Stllf'll(:-$ whieh should he fernieil llliring a single rotation of the rum wheel in and :1 single oseillalion of the feuil um mirrier :lise will rlepenil upon the feeil :uu \Yliiili is iii-lively rimuerteil with the work h hler and with the mm wheel. and he inw'lizinisiu f'nr rotating the rum wheel is lierel'oie so i'mistrueteil that the speeil of the 'llil wheel with relation to the sewing: mm lnmisui may he vzn'ie-il in aecorilunce with the length of lmttonhole being sewed. ll is also lleslruhle that the number of bar ring slilehes formed at earl end of the hutlonliole F-llfllllil he the saline. wlmtever the leilll'fill of the luififonhole. and the mechanism for rolath'ig the mm wheel is therefore also so eoutrollerl hat the speed of the mm wheel is the same (luring the herring. whatever iis adjustment for the siile slitehes. In the, ronstruetion shown, (he (Elm whee? 40 is seeureil upon the lin 'erenil of a: slmft H 6, the iiiilwl Plill of whirh earrios a worm WlH'el Hi8 engaged by a worm on :1 shaft HQ] The shaft 112 is driven through a spiral gear ill tifiill'utl thereto, 21ml engaged l2 :i spiral gem 1H; of one-half its diameter nllii'li is r ltflllfill to a shaft 'll -l. l llkgllllwl' ('llil of lhe shul'l lib is pim'hlqhh'flli the (ll iren member 12!} of a l'rii-tioirvlutrli. the driving meinher l2! nfwhieh is in the Form iil' ii piral g m I'll formed on the, eml of the shell J: \l'lllt'll is mounted in axial flllgib niem Milli llle shall 11%. The slu'ii t llrl is iiii il for limileil axial me'iwiuenb in its swings. :unl lorreil in A direction to hold :lilhll uienlher 12H lIl Qngiigczuenl with IOU this result.

the clutch member 122 by a spring 130. The clutch forming part of the driving connections between the main shaft 8 and the cam wheel is one form of means for enabling these connections to be broken for an interval during each stitch forming cycle to determine the speed of the cam wheel with relation to the stitch forming mechanism. In the construction shown the clutch is engaged and disengaged during each revolution of the shaft 8, and therefore during each stitch forming cycle. by axial movement of the shaft 118 and the driven clutch member 120. The means for thus moving the shaft and clutch member comprise a rod 132 extending through the shaft and provided at its inner end with a conical head adapted to engage a conical recess in the clutch member. The outer end of the rod is connected by a clamping screw 134 with a block 136 pivotally connected to a lever 138. The upper end of the lever is connected to the outer end of the link 140, the inner end of which is provided with a bearingengaging an eccentric 142 on the shaft 8. Through this mechanism the shaft 118 and the clutch member 120 are moved axially during each revolution of the shaft 8, an during each stitch forming cycle, to engage and disengage the clutch members and impart-an intermittent movement to the feed cam and work clamp. The speed of the cam wheel 40; and of the feed cam carrier with relation to the sewing mechanism for each stitch, will depend upon the length of the period during which the clutch members are in engagement. This period may be varied in accordance with the length of the buttonhole being sewn or the number of stitches in a given length of buttonhole, by adjustment of the rod 132 in the block 136. This adjustment will vary the lost motion between the conical cnd of the rod and the clutch member 120. and consequently vary the relative lengths of the periods durin; which the clutch members are engaged and disengaged.

In order that the speed of the cam wheel may be the same during the sewing of the barring stitches, whatever the adjustment of the rod 132, means is provided for automatically controlling the clutch to secure a In the construction shown this result is secured by mounting the shaft 22 so that it may have a limited axial move ment, and providing means for moving the shaft so that the clutch members will remain in engagement during the entire revolution of .the shaft 8, or for a period which is as long as the period during which the clutch is in engagement when the disengaging mechanism is adjusted for the shortest huttonhole. The means 'for moving the shaft 22 axially comprises a lever 144 pivotally connected to the end of the shaft, and provided near its lower end with a cam slot 146 which is engagcd by a pin 14? on the upper end of the link 36. which. as heretofore described. forms a part of the mechanism for varying the amplitude of the lateral vibrations of the nccdlc. \Vhcn thc lever 34 to which the link it: is connected is lowered to increasithe amplitude of the vibrations of thc nccdlc for tbc barring stitches. thc linger 14S engages the lower part of the cam slot 116 and forces the shaft 22 and driving: clutch nicmbcr l22 toward the right. as in Fig. T. lhis movement also carries the driven clutch nicuihcr 12H toward the right. thus increasing the lost motion between the rod 132 and the driven clutch member, so that the engagement of the clutch member is not affected by the rc-- ciprocation of the rod 132. or is only afi'cctcd to the same extent as when the rod is adjusted for the shortest buttonhole within the capacity of the machine. The movement imparted to the cam wheel and fecd cam carrier disc will be the same during the barring. therefore. whatever may be the adjustment oi the mechanism for engaging anrl disengaging the clutch during each edge stitch forming cycle.

The mechanism for moving the work support laterally to properly position the work for sewing: along the opposite sides of the buttonholc, and to ,position the work for the barring: stitches and for the cutting of a buttonholc slit. compriscs a guide block 150 arranged to engage a slot 15:2 in thc under surface of the work holder plate .3 3. and pivotcd upon the uppcr sidc of a $lltlc li l which is mounted in a guidcwav in the basc plate. The slide is operated through a iivll crank lever 156, one end of which is alottcd tocnibracc a pivot block 15% on thc nndcr sidc oi the slide. and the otlicicud of wh h is adjustabl connc tcd to a linli i i" hr :1 pivot stud 1H2. 'lhc rear end oi the lul is connected to an arm M l on the lower end of a rock shaft Hit}. the upper cnd of which is providcd with an arm 16S carrying a roll engaging a cam groove 170 in the u| pcr facc ot' the cam whccl 40.

The means for cutting' the buttonholc slit after the sewing has been completed tuin prises a cutter blade 172 secured on the lower end of a bar 174 which is mounted to slide vertically in a hearing: in the machine frame. The upper end of the cutter bar is connected by a link 176 to the from" end of a lever 178. the rear end of which conr c-tcd by a link 180 to a lcvcr 18:2 mounted on the support 18% for the stop plunger 1% of the stop mechanism. The other end of the lever 182 is connected by a link 188 with an arm 190 secured to the stop plunger. \Vhen the stop mechanism lild a spring 192 by a cam 194, and during this movement the cutter is operated to out the huttonhole slit through the conneetion clescriheri. the parts, being returned to their normal prflitinn. as indicated in Fig. i, when the plunger rises into the stopping (it"- pression llowing the cum HM.

The nwclninisi'n for driving unrl mopping the machine is uimi'lur in g i'lerul c instruction to the driving and stopping me hanimn shown Illili (lPHt'I'llHll in Patent No. Ll.- TML lllny E2, [9113. It comprises :i ilriving pulley UN; arrying one niemher of :l Friction I'lulch. the other incniher 19H of which is secured to the shaft The ilriaing pulley is forced in u ilirection lo engage the clutch llltllllltlH hr 21 sprin 24!". The clutch members are engugeit :unl (lisengugeil through :1 rorhing cum liSC- 202. one ifle of which engag s pin JH passing through the clutch moniher 198 illltl engaging the huh of the rlriving pulley. and the other hiilt' of which carries cams :20; arranged to engage corresponding (ENDS 208 on a fixed disc 214 The rock ng ram (line 202 is connecteil hy :1 link 21:! to an arm 2H proiecting from the support H44. and connected by :1 rod 216 with a starting treatlle (not shown). The mpport 194 for the stop plunger is mounted to uwing on trnnnions 5318 t move the upper moi of the stop plunger I G into and out of the path of the braking and stop cum 194. The support is forced in u direction to hring the \top plunger into the path ol the rum hi" it H ring 22H. 'hen the machine is to he alarm]. the treiullo is operated to draw ilown tht rml 21G, and thus swing the stop plwnger out of the path of the stop cams. and a the same time to rock the with |li c 52 12 in a direction to engage the driving clutch. The parts are retziineil in this position liv 2i hitch lrvi-r 2332. one arm of which is ur winged to engage. a notch 224 in the sirle of the NH] 3H1. When the sewing of the hutlo ihole has been conn pletcil a cum 226 on th cum wheel 4|) op (rates the latch lever 3:22 to (liqengagu it, from the notch in the Full 216. thus releasing the support 18 1. ex: that it is swung in a direction to hring the stop plunger into the path of the stop c: m by the spring 5320. This movement of the support also roih'S the cum ilisc 2H2 to disengage the chiteh members. During the forward revolution of the driving shaft 8 the stopping and braking can: 194 forces-i th stop plunger tlmvinrurih thereby operating the cutter as above (ls-scribed tlfitl as the shaft com s into final pmition the stop plunger moves upward into the stopping depression in the cam 194.

\Vhile it is preferred to employ the specific ronstriu-tion tlllll arrang ment. of parts shown nznl JltHiillli'ti in einluulving the in veuiion in :1 machin l'or M'Tllli; FlifiiglLi in l nnholw ill? lnrrc 'l "Ihifit iii iii-wool in: in; ihiP-ll'lllllli and ilillllill uith advantage in other forms or types of lautl nhole making nnl hines.

llurin explained the nature :Hhl ohjerl of the invention. umi specifically tlPHtIllJfll one form of uwclninisin in which it may he cluli lirll. what is claimed is:-

1, A liutlonhole. sewing |nu hine having, in comhixwtion, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder. ffitl merhnnism for relatively feeding the stitch forming mechanism and work holder, a clutch rotating in a uniform ilirg tion for actuating the feed mechanism, mul mechanism for engaging the clutch for an interval during ezu'h stitch forming cycle.

.1. A hultonhole sewing maehinc. having. in comhinution, -util h formin mechanism, 11 uork holder. fttli mechanism f r relatively feeding the stitr'h forming mechanism uml work holder, a clutch rotating in a uniform direction for actuating thu feed mechanism, mechanism for engaging the clutch for an interval during each stiteh forming ycle. and m ans for varying the interval of engagement.

3. A lmttonhole sewing machine. having. in combination, stitch forming mechanism u shaft for thriving the name a Work hohier. feed mei-huninnn driving cormections lieiween the shaft and feed meehaniun ineluding a clutch rotating in a uniform (lirection. and mechanism for engaging the rlulrh for an interval (luring each rcvohe lion oi the shaft.

4. A hnttonhnle sewing machine, having, in onihiiuition. stit h forming mechanim, a shaft; for driving the samm a work holder, feeil meehsmism. (lriving connections hetween the shaft and feed mechanism including a elutrh rotating in a uniform tllrection mechanism for engaging the clutch for an interval during each revolution of the shaft. and means for varying the interval of engagement to regulate the movement transmitted to the feed mechanism (luring each slitrh forming cycle.

5. A huttonhole sewing machine. having, in couihination. stitch forming merhanism, a work holder, at driving shaft for the stit ch forming mechanism, feed mechanism. driving connections between the shaft and fee l meehanism including two concunrtric clutch memhers and means for disengaging sniil hatch members by relative aviiii movement for an hire-ml during each stitch f rm ng: ith

l A hnttonhole sewing machine, having, ii roinmzmtiol alitrh forming merhanis'm,

a work holder, a driving shaft for the stitch forming mechanism, feed mechanism, driving connections between the shaft and feed mechanism including two concentric clutch members, means for disengaging said clutch members by relative axial movement for an interval during each stitch forming cycle, and means for varying the interval.

7, A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, at drivin shaft for the stitch forming mechanism, fee mechanism, a driving clutch member rotated in a uniform di rection from the shaft, a driven clutch mem. ber geared to the feed mechanism, and means for engaging the clutch members for an interval during each revolution of the shaft.

8. A buttonhole sewin machine, having, in combination, a needle ar, mechanism for laterally vibrating the same, a work holder, feed mechanism, a clutch for actuating the feed mechanism, mechanism for engaging the clutch for an interval during each stitch forming cycle, and mechanism for temporarily increasing the extent of vibration of the needle bar to form barring stitches and for increasing the clutch engagement interval during the barring.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a laterally vibrating neddle, a work holder, a cam wheel, a feed cam thereon, a cam thereon for laterally shifting the work holder, and a cam thereon for causing diifering movements to be transmitted to the cam wheel and for varying the amplitude of vibration of the needle.

10. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, a feed cam wheel, a clutch for driving the cam wheel, mechanism for engaging and disengagin the clutch by relative axial movement 0 its members during each stitch forming cycle, and mean operated by the cam wheel 'for varying the action of the clutch mechanism.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, a cam disc provided witha series of cams having different throws, any one of which may be connected to the work holder, a master feed wheel connected to oscillate the cam disc, and mechanism for giving the master wheel a single revolution during the sewing of each buttonhole.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, a cam disc provided with a series of cams having diilerent throws, any one of which may be connected to the work holder, a master cam having a constant throw connected to oscillate the cam disc, and mechanism for giving the master earn a single revolution during the sewing of each buttonhole.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, a series of feed cams having varying throws, a master feed cam having a uniform throw, and means for connecting any of the series of cams with the master cam and with the work holder, and means for turning the master cam through a single cycle during the sewing of each buttonhole.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work holder, a cam disc provided with a series of cams having different throws, any one of which may be connected with the Work holder, a cam wheel connected to oscillate the cam disc, mechanism for giving the cam wheel a single revolution during the sewing of each buttonholc, and means for adjustably regulating the movement imparted to the cam wheel during each stitch forming cycle.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a laterally vibrating needle, a work holder, a series of cams having different throws, any one of which may be connected :with the work holder, a cam wheel connected to operate the cam, means operated from the cam wheel for varying the amplitude of the vibrations of the needle, mechanism for turning the cam wheel through a single revolution during the sewing of a buttonhole, and means operated from the cam wheel for varying the speed of the cam wheel.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism includin a laterally vibrating needle, a work holder, a series of cams having dif ferent throws, any one of which may be connected with the Work holder, a cam wheel connected to operate the cams, means operative from the cam wheel for varying the amplitude of the vibrations of the needle, and mechanism for turning the cam wheel through a single revolution during the sewing of a buttonhole.

17. A buttonhole Sowingmachine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch forming mechanism and work, a clutch for operating the feed mechanism comprising concentric clutch members, and mechanism for moving one of the clutch members axially into and out of engagement with the other clutch member during each stitch forming cycle.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch forming mechanism and work, a clutch for operating the feed mechanism comprising two concentric clutch members one of which is connected to operate the feed mechanism, mechanism for actuating the other clutch member, and mechanism for engaging and disengaging the clutch members by relative axial movement during each stitch forming cycle to intermittently operate the feed mechanism 19. A bnttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch forming mechanism and work, a shaft connected to make one revolution for each stitch forming cycle, two concentric clutch members one of which is connected to operate the feed mechanism, and an eccentric on the shaft connected to axially reciprocate one of the clutch members.

20. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a laterally vibrating needle, Work holder, mechanism for relatively feeding and laterally shifting the stitch forming mechanism and work holder to sew edge and barring stitches, actuating means therefor adjustable to vary the speed of the feed mechanism for buttonholes of diiferent lengths, means operated by the feed mechanism for varying the amplitude of vibration of the needle and for controllin the actuating mechanism to secure a uniForm movement of the feed mechanism during the barring of all lengths of buttonholes.

21. A bnttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a laterally vibrating needle, a work holder, a cam Wheel, a feed cam thereon, and cams moving with the feed cam for laterally shifting the work holder, for causing diii'ering movements to be transmitted to the cam wheel and for var ing the amplitude of vibration of the need e.

BERNARD T. LEVEQUE. 

